Blog

Guide to Pet Friendly Activities in Seattle with your Dog

Posted on by Your Pal Cal

 golden retriever dog sitting in front of the seattle washington gum wall in post alley. He is wearing a bandana with bicycles on it

How to see Seattle with your dog in TWO days

Weekend Seattle trip with your dog? No problem. Find the best places to have fun in Seattle with your dog even if you are only visiting for the weekend. There are more than 20 dog parks within the Seattle Metropolitan area and countless off-leash dog trails through the forest. Most restaurants in Seattle have pet friendly patios where you and your pet will be treated like royalty. Even better yet, dogs are allowed on the bus, seaplanes, and boats throughout Seattle! From city adventures to nature, the Space Needle City will welcome your dog with open arms. We finally checked the fido friendly Seattle off our bucket list with a super quick trip. We were able to see the greatest sights but will be back for more in the years to come.

The best time of year to visit Seattle with your dog

As always, we recommend visiting the Pacific Northwest in the late spring and summer. The temperatures do not get too hot so you your dog will stay safe and the weather is generally sunny. It can be difficult to enjoy pet friendly cities during rainy winter months so we visited Seattle with our dog in August. The weather was perfect for being outside – sunny 76 degrees with a slight breeze.

Accommodations in Seattle with your dog

We wanted to stay in downtown Seattle so we could walk along the water and through Pike Place in the morning. We stayed at the Pet Friendly Kimpton Hotel Monaco. We had previously stayed at the Kimpton in Portland with our dog and had just as wonderful service this time around. The hotel allows dogs to stay free of charge without a pet cleaning fee. We got a free upgrade, were greeted with smiles and coffee each morning and found plenty of street parking around the hotel. Parking in Seattle was GREAT and easy (something we are not used to).

Map of Dog Friendly Activities in Seattle

golden retriever in front of pike place seattle market sign

Dog friendly activities in Seattle

The Pacific Northwest is known for its laid back, pet friendly cities and Seattle was no exception. We split up our time among different neighborhoods to take in the sights and vibes. We’ve organized this travel blog in order of our favorite activities by neighborhood. We arrived in Seattle from San Francisco on Friday evening, and left on Sunday night – this left us with less than 2 full days to visit so we tried to focus on the must see areas. Here’s how you can see Seattle with your dog in two days…..

TWO DAYS IN SEATTLE: DAY 0

Dinner in the the Hip & Artsy Capitol Hill 

We hopped off the plane at the Sea-Tac airport, grabbed our rental car and drove about 25 minutes into Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. The neighborhood is known for its laid back vibes, artsy feel, and hip dining. This neighborhood is the LGBTQ epicenter of Seattle and a great place for nightlife. We enjoyed walking through the neighborhood to find a place to eat – unsurprisingly, most establishments were crowded on Friday night. We passed by the famous Salt & Straw ice cream (for dessert), and a Cat Cafe (with real cats!). Samson admired the cats through the window and we found an outdoor Mexican Restaurant for some tacos. We had plenty of dog friendly dining options to choose from in Capitol Hill so we recommend walking around to choose a place for your taste.

Catch some Coronas at the Barking Dog Ale House or the Voff Bark & Brew

We aren’t really into nightlife, but if there’s “Dog” in the name, we are THERE. The two famous pet friendly bars in Seattle are the Barking Dog Ale House or the Voff Bark & Brew.

The Barking Dog Ale House is off the beaten path and most known for its unique and rotating selection of beers on tap. They have a standard selection of bar snacks with a solid American style dinner menu. Dogs are no longer allowed inside but there is an outdoor patio with full service!

Voff Bark & Brew is essentially a bar in a dog park and therefore introduces the potential of issues with aggressive dogs. The bar owners are very strict in not allowing out of control, loud dogs into the bar and outdoor area.  Dogs are allowed to play off leash and socialize with each other while humans enjoy their drinks. We did not visit as we choose to stay away from dog parks. We did see lots of great reviews online so it may be worth checking out as long as the risks are clear.

TWO DAYS IN SEATTLE: DAY 1

Get an early morning start at Pike Place Market & The Gum Wall

We got an early start to our day around 8am and found the waterfront and Pike Place Market already bustling with activity. We strolled along the waterfront to the Seattle Great Wheel then walked 10 minutes to the Pike Place Market. Dogs are not allowed inside the market but there are still plenty of shops to walk by along Pike Place. Check out the Original Starbucks (order ahead), Piroshky Piroshky, and Beecher’s Handmade Cheese.

The Gum Wall came next and took us a few moments to find – when in doubt, ask around. The best way to access the Gum Wall is at the corner of the market where Pike Place meets Pike St. Head down the stairs at the gold statue of the pig called “Rachel the Piggy Bank.”  The stair case looks grungy but leads tourists to the gum wall (equally gross, but awesome to see).

seattle public market sign at pike place

seattle post alley sign at pike place

fish at pike place market

berries at pike place market

golden retriever in front of seattle gum wall

Brunch with your dog at Norm’s Eatery and then check out Gasworks Park

Norm’s Eatery in Seattle may be one of the most dogified places we have ever visited – the food was great too! The speakeasy style bar has indoor and outdoor sections and is decorated entirely with dog memorabilia. Dog paintings, dog figurines, dog statues, dog beers, dog menus….everything dog is found at Norm’s. Even the bathrooms are dog themed.

We ate at Norm’s and then drove to the nearby Gasworks Park for views of the city. The actual Gasworks Park is nothing special and dogs must be kept on leash. The main reason to go to the park is for the best views of downtown Seattle. We made a quick stop, took in the views, then headed to Old Ballard.

 

dog signs at norms eatery in seattle

picture of labrador retriever puppies on a bench

dog menu at norms eatery in seattle

dog in front of seattle skyline at gasworks park

seattle skyline from gasworks park

retriever wearing a bandana in front of the puget sound

Take your dog to the Botanical Gardens & Old Ballard

Dogs are allowed on leash at the Carl English Botanical Garden. The garden was flowing with live music and the landscaping was beautiful. Walking through the garden leads to the Ballard Locks, a complex set of machinery that allows Boats to pass through areas of water that are at different levels. Even as an adult, I was mesmerized by the process – the nontrivial operation is run by US Army Corp Engineers. As boats enter through one side, they are locked into a waiting area as the water level changes to match the water on the other side. During salmon season, find the fish ladder to watch the Salmon jump out of the water against the current. We watched one lock switch and then headed to explore the Old Ballard neighborhood.

The Old Ballard neighborhood is where history meets trendy. We accessed Old Ballard by turning onto Ballard Ave NW from NW Market St. The neighborhood has a historical vibe paired with boutique shopping, thrifting, hip eateries, and coffee shops. We had outdoor pizza at Stoneburner and then grabbed an ice cream at the famous Salt & Straw. We found the Salt & Straw line to be shorter than any of the San Francisco locations. Although we stopped for pizza, there were countless pet friendly patios throughout Old Ballard. We saw the most dogs sitting on the Ocho patio at the beginning of the neighborhood.

On Sundays year round from 10am-3pm you will find the Old Ballard Farmer’s Market along 22nd Ave NW.

dog in front of yellow daffodils while wearing a sunflower bandana

Head to Discovery Park

Discovery Park is only 13 minutes from Old Ballard. We went to the park 2 hours before sunset to get to the beach front with enough time before dark.

The nicest part of Discovery Park is the West Point Lighthouse and Fort Lawton Beach. Dogs are not officially allowed on the beach (we did see some swimming) but the pathway along the beach is pet friendly. We parked at Discovery Park North Parking Lot since there was a full restroom nearby. Discovery Park South Parking Lot offers direct access to the main “Loop Trail” (unsure about bathroom access).

The trails are clearly marked and the best way to decide which trails to take will depend on your desired level of activity. There are shorter paths and switchbacks and luckily google maps works well throughout the park. We followed the main “Texas Way” paved path until it met the “Loop Trail.” The “Loop Trail” goes through the trees and eventually reaches cliffs over the Puget Sound where it meets the “South Beach Trail”. The “South Beach Trail” leads to the beach and turns into the “North Beach Trail” at the Lighthouse where it eventually gets back to the parking lot via the “Loop Trail”. We chose to take the long way back as the “North Beach Trail” kept us along the water for the longest time. Consider these trails when you visit Discovery Park:

  • Loop Trail
  • South Beach Trail
  • North Beach Trail
  • Hidden Valley Trail
  • Bird Alley
  • Texas Way

golden retriever standing in front of the puget sound during sunset

dog wearing a bandana on a cliff overlooking the puget sound

If you have time, enjoy the Kubota Gardens

Since we spent so much time at Discovery Park, we did not have a chance to see the pet friendly Kubota Gardens. The 20 acre Japanese Garden is advertised as a blend of Japanese styles with Northwest plants.

TWO DAYS IN SEATTLE: DAY 2

Sunrise at Magnuson dog beach

The 8.6 acre Magnuson Park Off Leash Dog Area has access to the Dog Beach on Lake Washington. The paths are well maintained and safe for dogs. With enough coffee, the views from the beach are not too shabby to wake up to.

Grab a biscuit in Belltown & walk to the Space Needle

We headed to the famous “Buiscuit Bitch” in Belltown for breakfast. This place was POPULAR! We waited nearly 30 minutes for our food once we ordered, but luckily the neighborhood is wonderful to explore. The Biscuit Bitch is a 10 minute walk to Space Needle Park and a 15 minute walk to the water front Olympic Sculpture Park. For those who like dog parks, there is also a dog park right in front of the restaurant for dogs to blow off some steam while the humans wait for breakfast.

We chose to enjoy a coffee while waiting for our food and managed to grab a table right outside. Afterwards, we waked to the Space Needle Park. Pets are allowed in the park, but not in the Space Needle itself. We were relatively underwhelmed by the Space Needle, but still had a great walk through the park (and another coffee).

biscuit bitch belltown menu

biscuit bitch belltown menu

seattle space needle

dog in front of the seattle space needle

dog in front of the seattle space needle

Stroll through the quiet Washington Park Arboretum

We love strolling through parks whenever we visit a new city. If that isn’t your jam, you can scroll down to the bottom of this post to get some more ideas for activities to do in Seattle. The Washington Park Arboretum is a well manicured green space in the heart of the city. Most of the paths are paved and the park was quiet and away from the crowds. The park is probably more breathtaking when the leaves start to change color for fall.

dog standing in the seattle arboreteum while wearing a bandana

dog standing behind a rock in front of autumn foliage

Bring your Dog to the Seattle Waterfalls or Rattlesnake Ledge

Off Leash Hiking Trails in Seattle are easy to find. If you are willing to travel 45 minutes outside the city, there are plenty of trails to choose from. We chose the off-leash Rattlesnake Ledge trail as a final stop before heading to the airport. The best time to hike Rattlesnake Ledge is at sunrise – we went midday and it was CROWDED all the way up. This 5.1 mile out and back trail is about 1500 ft uphill to the peak but worth the views. Afternoon was the only time that we could fit in this hike but our experience suffered from the crowds on the narrow (and steep) trail. It was impossible to get a peaceful view from the ledge but we got a bit of a view by squeezing ourselves in between the crowds.

Some of the other trails in the area that we didn’t get to try out are the Snow Lake Trail. The 6.4 mile out and back trail leads to a breathtaking lake at the Snoqualmie Pass. Dogs must be kept on leash.

The pet friendly waterfalls near Seattle are also worth checking out:

  • Twin Falls (3.6 miles out and back)
  • Snoqualmie Falls (1.3 miles out and back)
  • Panther Creek Falls (.3 miles out and back)

rattlesnake ledge view of mountains and forests

rattlesnake ledge lake view at the top

golden retriever at the top of rattlesnake ledge hike

dog sitting at the top of rattlesnake ledge

More Pet Friendly activities in Seattle for next time

  • Fremont Sunday Ice Cream Cruise – The Seattle Ice Cream Cruise departs on the house from 11am to 4pm on Sundays year round.
  • Boat rentals at Green Lake Park – The Green Lake Boat Rentals allow humans to rent out Kayaks, SUP, or rowboats with their pets.
  • Kennmore Air Flightseeing Tours – Seaplane tours on Kennmore Air are pet friendly! See their website for routes and prices. Pets are allowed for a fee as long as they are friendly and trained.
  • University Village Outdoor Shopping Center – If you want to shop, the University Village outdoor shopping center is a great place to visit with your dog.
  • Seattle Bakery Treat Truck – Check out a food truck just for your dog! See here for their most current location.

 

The PNW is Calling, 
-Your Pal Cal

No comments yet

Flying with a Dog in Cabin: Airplane Travel With A Dog

Posted on by Your Pal Cal

service dog in cabin on airplane

Everything You Need to Know About Traveling on a Plane with Your Dog

So how do you bring your dog on the plane? Traveling on a plane with your dog doesn’t have to be painful. Bringing a dog in cabin is something that you can prepare for to have a successful flight. Review all the required paperwork for traveling with your dog on a plane and make sure you are fully ready. Hopefully this page will answer most of the frequently asked questions.

How do you travel with a dog?
Until late 2018, Calvin was an Emotional Support Animal (ESA) but his role eventually changed. After task training, public access testing (although not required), and doctor recommendation, Calvin became a fully trained Medical Response Service Dog. Over time, it became clearer that Calvin is better suited for other activities. He loves to work and continues to do so at home, but his energy levels have not been as well suited for public work. The standards for a service dog are exceptionally high and so we introduced Samson as a new potential helper. Samson has since taken over Calvin’s role and spent the first year of his life training with professionals to be a great helper. His training will continue but he has done an amazing job so far. Services dogs are covered by the American Disabilities Act (ADA) but ESAs are not. Unlike a service animal, an Emotional Support Animal is not granted access to places of public accommodation. Read about the difference between a Service Dog and ESA here.  Because many ESA handlers are unsure of their rights, this post is written to help ESA handlers. We believe that dogs have a wonderful healing effect and hope that our ESA friends can find this page useful and travel responsibly. It is assumed that trained service dogs have received some sort of more formal training so this page will not be as helpful for that use case.

How often do you travel?
We fly about twice a month, sometimes more. Our dogs have flown on short flights, cross country flights, and international flights. Our flight counter is up to over 75 planes…

What does ESA cover? Can Emotional Support Animals fly in the plane cabin?
ESA covers housing accommodations even in “no pets” buildings.  Emotional Support Animals are also generally accepted to fly in cabin with their handler as long as they do not take more than the footprint of the seat. You are also permitted to buy an extra seat for your ESA but the ESA is not allowed on the seat (only the floor). It is important to check the regulations for each particular airline.  Different airlines have different policies. ESA status does NOT grant public access rights and cannot “go everywhere”. Emotional Support Animals can fly in cabin with their handler.

Does an ESA (Emotional Support Animals) need special training?
The short answer is no – however, we feel strongly that it is important for ESAs to be well trained especially if they will be traveling. A poorly trained dog is more stressful than therapeutic.

If your dog can’t walk at a polite heel, stay in place, listen to commands….it has no place being in an airport. People who bring untrained dogs into the airport just make it more difficult for those who take the time to train their dogs – having a particular illness also does not automatically excuse a dog from behaving poorly. Even if you do have a diagnosed illness that would benefit from a dog, your dog does not (and should not) get automatic rights to come with you when you travel. We recommend getting the Canine Good Citizen title as a way to gauge whether they can listen to commands and handle distractions. If your ESA misbehaves or causes destruction, airlines can ask you to leave. It is up to the handlers discretion whether their dog can handle flying.

What ESA documentation needs to be provided? Do Emotional Support Dogs require doctor’s notes?
A formal letter from a physician or mental health professional must be provided.  Always check with the airlines before hand to understand their regulations – each airline has a different process. The letter must:

  • Not be over a year old
  • Be from a physician or mental health professional who is currently treating you
  • Must be on the doctor’s official letterhead (include doctor’s license numbers)
  • State the reason for prescribing an Emotional Support Animal and why it is necessary

Almost all airlines have updated their requirements to include proof of training, a filled in form from a physician who must state they are currently treating the traveler, and a letter of health from the vet. These forms must be submitted at least 48 hours before the flight. We respect this and think it would be a great idea for more airlines to require additional documentation to ensure legitimate ESAs! These additional requirements help ensure the legitimacy of ESA animals and the function they perform.

Where does the dog sit in the plane?
The dog sits between your legs or under the seat in front of you. We recommend extra leg room for a better fit. Your dog must be able to remain in a down stay for the duration of the flight.

Where does the dog relieve itself? Can a dog go to the bathroom in the airport?
Most airports have signs to a pet relief area but they can be hard to find.  Ask a staff member or look up the map in advance. For a cross country flight, your pet will be expected to hold it for about 9-12 hours. We did not find pet relief areas in international airports so we gave Calvin the option of relieving himself on a potty pad in the human bathroom.

Taking a dog through the airport? What is the airport process?
Check with the airline you are flying to learn their ESA rules – each airline is different. Most airlines require documentation 48 hours before. Others require a fax from the doctor. Always call the airline beforehand so they know to put the animal on the ticket and make arrangements – you can sometimes get upgraded to extra leg room or bulkhead if it is available.

Once you get to the airport, bring the dog to the ticket counter to have your documentation verified by an agent.  Then, you head to security and pass through as usual. Security may ask you to remove all collars and harnesses. It is important for the sake of not making a fool of yourself that your dog has a very solid stay, come, and heel. With the dog, you will be able to pre-board and get settled before other passengers.  This gives you some time to get the dog settled and down between your legs on the flight.

Best airlines for dogs: Favorite airlines with dogs?
Our favorites are Delta, United, JetBlue, Alaska, Virgin, Air France, and Southwest. We’ve never had any issues. Always check the airline pet policies before flying.  It is also a good idea to call ahead to see what the airline dog requirements are.

What are some good things to teach an ESA (or an SD)?
When you fly, we make sure that your dog is on their best behavior.  The commands we use most often when flying are “park,” “scoot,” “leave it,” “under,” “sit/down,” “wait/go” or “heel, “go potty.”  Obviously, the dog must be also be friendly and not aggressive.  We have Calvin “park” himself between our legs when we are waiting on lines.  When the lines move forwards, he is able to “scoot” forward so that he remains between our legs and sits back down when we stop.  “Leave it” is an important one because there are many new smells (and other dogs) at airports.  It is important to be able to command your dog to look away from any distractions. We use “wait/go” when passing through security..  Generally, the handler walks through first and leaves the dog in a “wait” or “stay” on the other side of the metal detectors.  You also have the option to walk through with your dog – in which case you need to keep it at a “heel.”  Once through, the dog is commanded to pass through the metal detectors and patted down by TSA.   We use “under” when sitting in front of the gate waiting to board.  “Under” means the dog must put itself in a down under your legs (under the seats).  This keeps him away from foot traffic and out of the way.  There are designated areas where your dog can relieve him/herself, so make sure they know what “go potty” means so they can do it on command.

Flying with a Dog in Cabin: Airplane Travel With A Dog
Tips & Tricks for taking a dog on a plane?

We no longer need any training tools during flights but here is what helped us during training:

  • Bring A LOT of long lasting treats and chews.  This means bully sticks, marrow bones, tracheas ect. Also, be sure to bring many high value treats in case you are having trouble keeping your dog’s attention.  Eventually, your pup will get used to flying and treats won’t be necessary during flights.
  • Make sure the dog is fully tired out before boarding.  A tired dog will be well behaved on a flight.
  • Refrain from feeding or watering your dog for about 5 hours before the flight.

Does an ESA wear a vest? Does a Service Dog have to wear a vest?
ESAs do not have to wear a vest (neither do service dogs) but many choose to.

Landing & Takeoff with a dog?
Treats are your friend.  Reward good behavior while on the plane, on escalators (we opt for elevators to protect the toes), in the security line.

Any Notable Experiences?

  • Reactive Dogs:  We had one experience where someone had a smaller but reactive dog with them in the security line.  The dog immediately lost its mind when it saw Calvin, and began barking and growling.  Its handler was clearly embarrassed and part of me felt very bad for him.  The man was asked to leave the line until his dog was under control. Make sure that your dog does not react back.  Work on the “leave it” command – When dogs bark at Calvin, he will look at them and then we say “leave it” so that he turns his attention back to us.
  • Dog Haters: Some people hate dogs – it happens.  We were once sitting in our seat with Calvin sleeping (not even moving) under the seat.  A woman walked by and SCREAMED at the top of her lungs.  Calvin stirred, looked at her blankly, and went back to bed.  It is important to be aware that situations like this will happen and that many people at the airport do not want a dog coming to sniff them (or even look at them).  Try to keep your dog fully attentive to you while in the airport.
  • Children:  Children are great but they do not know how to approach dogs.  We do not see this as an issue because we know that Calvin will someday have to learn to adapt with our children.  We will obviously try to teach them to behave appropriately but we know that mistakes will be made and we want Calvin to be reliable and patient around them.  We were once approached by a family with 4 very young children – they were mesmerized by Calvin.  The situation ended with one of the girls sticking a lollipop up Calvin’s nose, pulling his ears, and trying to ride him like a horse.  We quickly rectified the situation and luckily Calvin did not seem to care (not even a little bit).
  • Human Bathroom:  When traveling alone, the bathroom situation is tricky. The stalls are small and take time for pups to get used to, don’t expect them to be ok walking right in.
  • Full Body Pat Downs: If you get stopped at security for a full pat down and investigation of your bags, don’t panic but this does make it more difficult to control your dog.  It is helpful to get out of the way of foot traffic and try to find a quiet spot. This will make it more likely that the dog will not get distracted.  When this happens, we put Calvin in a down stay and talk to him with cooing noises so that he does not lose focus.  Make sure to reward after a success!
  • Escalators: Most dogs are not naturally inclined towards escalators or moving walkways.  Acclimate your dog to these before heading to the airport. You do not want them holding up other passengers because they don’t want to get on the escalator. Alternatively, you can opt for the elevator. We choose to use the elevators because we do not want Calvin’s paws getting stuck in the escalators.
  • Bad Days: Everyone has a bad day – especially puppies and teenage dogs. Here are a few lessons learned…

Lessons Learned?

  • Tire Out Your Puppy: A tired (exhausted!) puppy, is a well behaved puppy.  Make sure your dog is tired before you attempt flying.  Try daycare leading up to the flight or a long hike.
  • Chews: Bring lots of your pup’s favorite chews.  This means the most delicious bully sticks, tracheas, pig ears ect.
  • Prevent Accidents: Limit water and food intake before the flight.  This will minimize the chances of an accident especially after a long flight.  Thanks to this advice from friends we have prevented accidents at the airport! One of our travel days was 16 hours without a potty break (we do not recommend this)
  • Lots of treats: Use high value treats to keep his/her attention on you and not the surroundings.
  • Stay Calm: Everyone who has raised a puppy or dog knows that some days are better than others.  Stay consistent – Keep trying and don’t give up.
  • Be Honest: If your dog is anxious at the airport, unable to keep its cool in new situations, or reactive/loud (potentially disruptive to trained service dogs) skip the plane and leave them with the puppy sitter!
  • Apologize: If something goes wrong, apologize and take responsibility for it.  If it becomes a trend, you may need to reevaluate your decision to bring your pet along.

Happy flying!

-Your Pal Cal

3 Comments

What to Expect at the Airport with your Dog

Posted on by Your Pal Cal

service dog on airplane

Taking a dog on an Airplane: What to Expect at the Airport

Every wonder what you need to know to bring your dog on a plane? Wonder how to succeed at airplane dog travel? What kind of paperwork do you need to bring your dog in cabin? As we sit on yet another cross country flight, we figured we would take the time to discuss all the challenges, processes, and people that you may face when traveling with your Service Dog or ESA. We would also like to include some tips for training your dog to succeed in such a busy and hectic place.  For more information about flying with a dog please see our post about it here. Enjoy this full list of things to prepare for at the airport. But first….

Emotional Support Dog vs. Service Animal

We would like to make clear that there is an important distinction between a Service Animal and an ESA (Emotional Support Animal). A Service Animal is defined by the ADA here. This means that the dog is individually trained to perform certain tasks that directly mitigate its handler’s disability.  A disability is defined as “a physical or mental impairment that substantially limits one or more major life activities.” Having a particular diagnosis does not make you automatically “qualified” to have a Service Dog or defined as disabled.  You can be suffering from a similar diagnosis (Panic Disorder, Anxiety, PTSD) as someone with a Service Dog and it can have some impact on your life, BUT this does not mean that you are disabled. These diagnoses impact people in different ways and have different implications in daily life. Only a trained psychiatrist or physician who knows you diagnoses well can determine if you are disabled and require a Service Dog .A well trained ESA is NOT a Service Dog. It is our personal opinion that it is important for ESAs to be trained – worrying that your animal is going to misbehave on a plane or bark all day in your no-pets allowed apartment, lunge at other dogs ect, is definitely not comforting and very disrespectful to those around you.

What is Calvin? What is Samson?

Until late 2018, Calvin was an Emotional Support Animal (ESA) but his role eventually changed. After task training, public access testing (although not required), and doctor recommendation, Calvin became a fully trained Medical Response Service Dog. Over time, it became clearer that Calvin is better suited for other activities. He loves to work and continues to do so at home, but his energy levels have not been as well suited for public work. Samson has since taken over Calvin’s role and spent the first year of his life training with professionals to be a great helper. His training will continue but he has done an amazing job so far.

We keep our private life private and do not center our social media presence on the boys working. We included a little bit more information about the dog’s roles in our other airport guide and will therefore not go into detail here.

Airport processes with a dog:

  • Check In Line
  • Security Line
  • Waiting at the gate
  • Boarding
  • Exiting Plane

service dog in airplane cabin under seat

Sounds and Stimuli to Expect: If your dog comfortable around loud sounds? 

The best way to prepare for flights is to find similar stimuli outside of the airport and then work your way up to practicing in the airport without a flight booked (before security).  Stand in lines, sit at baggage claim, ect.

Moving walkways and escalators
Dogs are not naturally inclined to walk on escalators and moving walkways. Watch out for their toes! Practice at dog friendly outdoor places (if you have an ESA).  Try over and over until your dog gets used to the moving platform. When Calvin is afraid of something, we walk by it over and over until he can do so without darting away.

Elevators
Nothing much to say here – business as usual.

Large trolleys
Trolleys carrying baggage, people, garbage ect are all things to expect.  They have big wheels and make a lot of noise.

 Hand dryer in bathrooms
If your dog is afraid of blow dryers, the bathroom is going to be a challenge. Practice at home when you dry your hair by keeping your dog in the bathroom with you.  Do this every morning until they seem comfortable with the sound.

Rolling suitcases
Just another thing to get used to. No biggie here.

Metal detectors/Security Equipment
Be prepared for a lot of commotion at the security line – it’s a good idea to place the dog into a down-stay while you are unloading your bag, taking off shoes, ect.  Down-stay is also useful when going through the metal detectors.  Some TSA agents make the dog go through fully naked while others allow them to keep on their vest (I think Service Dogs are allowed to keep their vests on but do not quote me on that).

Dealing with Reactive dogs
We do not believe that a legitimate ESA or Service Dog should be reactive on leash.  Airlines have clearly defined rules that reactive dogs cannot be allowed on planes, but there has not been any crack down on it. We have had reactive dog situations more times than we can count.  One woman’s small dog freaked out at a sleeping Calvin at the gate, looked us straight in the eye and said “sorry, she doesn’t like big dogs.” We weren’t sure what to make of this other than….wtf?! (excuse the language).  Part of us felt badly for her, but then we realized that dog training is entirely up to the owner and leash reactivity is not appropriate for working dogs. We have many more stories including a miniature pinscher “service dog” fighting with a Chihuahua “service dog” at the gate.  We like to think that Calvin (while watching and holding his down-stay) was silently laughing. Don’t even get us started on the Frenchie that we watched wiggle its way through security while its owner chased it. Establish a reliable “leave it” when walking by other dogs and use treats if needed to reinforce the command. Please note, that we believe ANY breed CAN be a Service Dog or ESA, we are just describing these particular experiences which have nothing to do with the dog’s breed, just their training.

service dog on airplane cabin

Types of people you will meet while traveling with your dog:

The REALLY Rude People
If you are an introvert (like me) having everyone watching your every move is already really intimidating.  Now, add in the rude people who think they have the right to hoot at you, throw things (yes this happened), make mean comments really loudly, squeak things in your dogs face while laughing (this literally just happened).  The list goes on and on. Most people are already in a bad mood because they hate flying, and you have to be ready for them. When situations arise, we have found it is best to keep our cool and just let Calvin sit politely while they are being rude so that they look like FOOLs. Some people are rude for no reason – let’s hope they’re just having a bad day.

The Curious People
These people mean no harm, they are just unfamiliar with the process and are understandably curious at how a 60 pound dog fits under a seat (he does!). They will ask questions, and it is up to you if you want to answer.

The Children
Children love dogs. They’ll want to say hi. Calvin also loves children…and wants to say hi. Sticky fingers, nose boops, ear pulling….his kryptonite.  For this reason, we tend to keep him under our seat at the gate so that he is seen by as few people as possible.  It is up to you whether or not you want to engage with the children.  We used to let children pet Calvin more when we were still socializing him but now we keep him tucked under our seats wherever we are.

The Dog Haters
Some people have had bad experiences with dogs, which is unfortunate.  They have also seen the news of untrained dogs causing havoc at airports or people trying to get their peacocks onto flights.  All of these things make them cringe when they see a dog, even well trained, walking through the terminal.  Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do but ignore them. If your dog isn’t bothering them and is tucked away under your seat, there really isn’t anything they should be upset about.

The Allergic to Dogs
This happened to us on a flight once and it was important for us to respect the woman’s allergy. She did pet Calvin at the gate (while sitting next to us) and was sitting three rows behind us (but let’s not talk about that).  Some people ARE severely allergic to dogs which leads to a more tricky situation that should be respected.  When this happened, the attendant came to let us know and we told her we were open to relocating to the very back of the plane to accommodate the woman’s request.  I am unsure what the protocol is if this happens with a trained Service Dog team and how they weigh the two requests so I cannot say what would happen in that situation.

The pilot and staff
They are generally friendly if you fly on the more “dog friendly” airlines.  We have noticed that airlines are inconsistent with how friendly their staff are so it’s just depends on who is checking you in. Many times, the pilots will want to say hi.  Of course, this is entirely up to you and they always ask for permission and understand your preferences. We generally let Calvin give them a BOOP for good luck.

The TSA
Your dog can generally keep its gear on when going through security.  You will put him in a down stay and then walk through the metal detector with your back to him.  Then you call him to you.  TSA will test your hands and often will pat down your dog (Calvin’s favorite part).  They are generally very friendly but you should expect more scrutiny in terms of bag checking and pat downs. Also, if you bring canned food, they’ll let you by but it will set off the alarm. We set it off every time and they like to play a “what set off the alarm game?” – someone always wins with the dog food guess.

What does the dog do on the plane? How to prepare your dog for plane travel:

Jet bridge sound
You know when you get onto the jet bridge and walk down that long hallway to the plane entrance?  The air is stuffy, and it sounds like you are heading straight for a big vacuum. It took Calvin about 4 flights to finally get used to this sound. We had a great crew on one flight that let us practice Calvin (since we pre-board).

Turbulence
Treats and comfort are your friend. If your dog is used to being in the car, this shouldn’t be an issue.

Limited leg room
There is going to be a leg room shortage if your dog weighs anything more than 30lbs.  To pre-empt this, it always helps to ask at check in if there are any available seats on the plane.  If so, they can move you to a row with an empty seat or bulkhead.  Unfortunately, this isn’t a very common situation.  To prepare for less leg room, travel light and get your dog situated before other passengers get on the plane.  The best way to fit them is to push their behind all the way under the seat in front of you.  This fits a 60lb lab even though it is uncomfortable. If you are traveling with another person, the leg room is not an issue.  We have found that the comfortable amount of leg space for a big dog is 1.5 seats.  We rarely travel solo so Calvin’s head will often invade a bit of his dad’s legroom.

Nervousness
We do not want to sugar coat – the first flight will be stressful! especially if you are dealing with anxieties. It is totally normal for the handler AND dog to feel a little bit nervous on their first flight.  One thing that we used to settle Calvin immediately is one of our sweatshirts.  We always place a sweatshirt that smells like our home on the ground before we set him into a down-stay.  He feels more at home and immediately snuggles into it

Take off and landing
A Boeing weighs about 970,000 lbs. As a human, even I am shocked when they catapult into the air carrying 200 passengers and a full cargo of luggage. Because your dog will be at your feet, they will get the brunt of the engine rumbling.  Have your treats ready and you may need to hold them down for the split second that the plane takes off (again this will likely only be for your first flight).  They’ll likely settle down once you reach 10,000 feet.

Narrow aisles
Aisles are not large enough to fit a dog and human side by side.  Either have your dog follow in a heel, or walk between your legs (we call this “scoot”).  We aren’t really sure why but have noticed that we tend to use the heel when getting on the plane and scoot when exiting.

Exiting
A reliable “back” command is useful if you are dealing with the narrow aisles and leg space.  If your dog ends up facing the windows, it will need to back out of the row to exit the plane.

Happy Flying (LOL),
Your Pal Cal

1 Comment

DIY Custom Dog Harness

Posted on by Your Pal Cal

service dog with y front harness

Make your own dog harness:

Ever wanted to make your own DIY dog harness? Turns out, you can make a dog harness at home with the right materials. We love making Y-front fleece dog harnesses at home to use for our dogs or to gift to friends. These fleece harnesses are comfortable, great for sensitive skin, fully customizable, versatile for working dogs, and fun to make! There are so many different types of dog harnesses out there – the Easy Walk, Puppia, Petsafe, Freedom Harness….the list goes on and on.

Disclaimer: If pulling is the reason the dog is walking on a harness, you should NOT attach the leash to the harness you make as it is not an industrial strength harness that can withstand pulling from a big dog.  We have included this disclaimer for the safety of your pup – of course your dog can still wear this trendy DIY harness but the leash should be attached to a collar if your dog pulls. Additionally, you should always reinforce the attachment stitches with box and zigzag stitches especially if you are attaching a handle. Please, please, please remember that one row of stitches is not enough to handle pulling.

It is super easy to get started on making your own doggie harnesses at home: all you need is a sewing machine, fleece, webbing (polypropylene) and some metal or plastic hardware. Read through this page to get all information about sizing and materials. On this page you will find the following:

  • Step-by-step video to make your own harness
  • Full list of materials
  • Sizing chart
  • How to measure your dog
  • A design for each section of the harness and how it comes together

DESIGN: How is the custom harness designed?

measurements for homemade dog harness

MEASUREMENTS: How to measure your dog for a harness:

how to measure a dog harness

SIZING CHART: How to cut the fleece and webbing to fit your dog:

Sizing Chart for fabric cuts: Harness Measurements

MATERIALS: What do you need to make your own fleece dog harness?

  • Fleece fabric (.5 yard per harness)
  • 1 inch lightweight polypropylene webbing (~5 feet per harness)
  • 1.5 inch lightweight polypropylene webbing (~10 feet per harness)
  • 1.5 inch side release plastic buckle (x1)
  • 1 inch lightwire metal D-rings (x6)
  • 2 inch triangle loop (x1)
  • 1.5 inch rounder tri glide/metal slides (x1)
  • 2 inch rounded tri glide/metal slides (x3)
  • Optional: 1 inch lobster snaps for additional handles (x4)
  • Optional: plastic tubing (1/4 inch) or corset boning (1/4 inch) (for semi rigid handle. Either the tubing or the corset boning works for a semi rigid handle. The corset boning will be more rigid)
  • Required if using steel corset boning: metal cutter(required for cutting the steel)
  • Rotary cutter
  • Self healing cutting mat (personally prefer the 24×36 size)
  • Fabric scissors
  • Yardstick Ruler (for cutting fabric on self healing mat)
  • Lighter (to prevent frayed edges)
  • Sewing machine
  • Thread (match webbing color, the quality of the thread will impact how well it goes through the machine)
  • Optional but VERY useful: adhesive spray (to secure the webbing to the fleece while sewing so it does not slip)
  • Option: Embroidery Machine

WhHERE TO BUY FLEECE:

Jo-Ann’s Fabrics – “Blizzard Fleece Fabrics” or “Anti-pill Fleece Fabric.” You will use about 1/2 yard per harness. Unfortunately, the webbing and the hardware needs to be bought online and are not available at Jo-Ann’s. 
Favorite non-fleece Fabric: Faux Leather Vinyl from Etsy. An 8×52 roll can complete 1 harness

WHERE TO BUY HARDWARE & WEBBING: 

CHEAPEST OPTION: 
Strapworks (cheap & fast shipping)
I buy everything except the trigger snaps from Strapworks. I buy the lobster snaps from Amazon instead.
Webbing (lightweight polypropylene)
D-rings (lightwire)
Trigger Snaps (lightduty)
ALTERNATE OPTIONS:
Amazon
Countrybrook Design

Tips for making the perfect harness:

  • Stay organized! Label your pieces A, B, C, D and put each in a different plastic baggies or use another method to keep all the pieces separate
  • The first time you make a harness, the process will seem confusing. Don’t worry, it will get easier each time
  • You may not get sizing right the first time, but luckily each piece of the harness will have a room for a few inches of error with adjustments. It might take a few tries to get a perfectly sized harness.
  • Keep your cuts perfectly straight. Make sure that you are lining up your folds with a straight edges so the pieces are not lopsided
  • Use temporary adhesive spray to keep your folds in place. This makes the process much easier.
10 Comments

Easy Dog Training: 5 ways to incorporate training into your daily life

Posted on by Your Pal Cal

Dog training doesn’t have to take extra time out of your day. In fact, your puppy can learn the obedience basics of “sit, stay, come, leave it” right at home as part of your daily routine. It still is always good  to supplement basic dog training with additional time – we recommend at least 25 minutes of dedicated training per day. The routine on this post is not enough to fully train a dog so finding a professional dog trainer near your is still important. The ideas below are good for the extra busy days where there aren’t 25 minutes to spare. On those days, there are numerous ways you can make even simple dog training more complicated right at home.  Here are some ways to make basic commands even more challenging for your dog:

two cream retrievers wearing flower collars

golden retriever puppy wearing a flower collar

1. Train Your Dog to Wait Before Meals

Training your dog to wait before eating is one way to develop impulse control from the day you bring your puppy home. Training wait can be done at every meal so the “wait” command does not need to take any additional time from your busy day. Over time, teach your dog to wait longer before allowing them start eating.

Basics: 

  • Before your dog starts eating their meal, tell them to “wait.” Do not let them start their meal until you say “ok.” If your dog immediately tries to eat from the bowl, cover it with your hands. Wait a few seconds, then uncover the bowl and say “ok”
  • Have your dog “wait” before taking a treat so they do not grab the treat from your hand

Make It More Challenging:

  • Have your dog “wait” for 30 seconds before eating
  • Have your dog “wait” for 2 minutes before eating
  • Call your dog to come to you, requiring them to walk past their bowl and not eat their food yet.
  • Instead of saying “ok” as the first word, trick your dog by saying words such as “cat,” “dog,” “anything” to make sure that your dog knows that they can only eat when they hear “OK” not when they hear other words.  You cant your dog to be able to verbally discriminate the word “ok” from the other words so that they don’t begin eating as soon as they hear a human voice.

golden retriever puppy wearing a dr seuss bandana

retriever dogs wearing matching bandanas

2. Train Your Dog to Wait at Doorways, Gates, and Entryways

Teaching your dog to wait at doorways, gates, entryways, ect can start at home and then be applied to many situations. This is an important skill to learn for impulse control but also for safety.  If your dog waits at doors, it won’t bolt outside (and potentially into the street).  The same applies for having your dog wait before jumping out of the car.

Basics:

  • Start at a closed door. Open the door, but make sure your dog doesn’t walk through (you may have to use your leg to keep him back). Once you step through ahead of your dog, turn around and release him with “ok.”
  • Always use a release word for your dog such as “ok,” “free,” or “release”

Make It More Challenging:

  • Tell your dog to wait and walk through an entry way (no door).
  • Tell your dog to wait before jumping out of the car
  • Add distance by walking further away before turning around and releasing your dog
  • Tell your dog to wait and walk through the doorway with your back to the dog instead of keeping your eyes on him the entire time

3. Train Your Dog to Leave Things Around the House

Teaching your dog to “leave it” is another potentially life saving skill that you can teach right at home. It is still imperative that you train “leave it” in different contexts outside but indoors is a good start.  There are plenty of ways to make “leave it” challenging indoors.

Basics:

  • If your dog is new to the “leave it” command you can hold him on a leash to make sure that your dog doesn’t get to the item you are teaching “leave it” with.
  • Start with a low value item like a boring toy or kibble.  Drop the item next to your dog and say “leave it.” Do NOT let your dog get the item even after they have successfully left it.  Your dog has to learn that “leave it” means they don’t ever get the item. See here for the difference between “wait” and “leave it.”
  • Your dog will likely spend time looking at the item even after you say “leave it.” As soon as your dog looks back towards you, reward them with a treat and praise. Repeat the process and treat your dog each time they look back to you after the “leave it” command.

Make It More Challenging:

  • Train your dog to “leave it” without a leash attached
  • Train your dog to “leave it” with high value food thrown towards them
  • Add distance by telling your dog to leave it while they are stranding further away from you
  • Spread treats out around your floor. Recall your dog from across the room but have them “leave it” by avoiding the treats.  Do not let your dog get the treats after they get to you (pick them up and use them later)
  • Tell your dog to “leave it” with a plate of human food on the floor
  • Walk around the room with your dog while walking by treats on the floor. Do not let your dog get the treats
  • Throw around your dog’s favorite toy and tell them to “leave it.” Do not play with it after they leave it (put it away for later)

labrador retriever wearing a pink gingham bandana

puppy wearing a pink bowtie

4. Train Your Dog to Hold Longer Stays While You Eat Dinner or Watch TV

Basics:

  • Command your dog to “stay” on a mat or towel about 5 feet from where you are eating. Tether them to a leash if they can’t hold their stay for an entire meal
  • Always use a release word for your dog such as “ok,” “free,” or “release”

Make It More Challenging:

  • Train your dog to stay on their bed for the entirety of your human meal including cleanup and washing dishes
  • Train your dog to stay during a meal without a bed or mat
  • Train your dog to stay on their bed while you brush your teeth
  • Train your dog to stay on their bed while you cook dinner
  • Train your dog to stay and then walk out of the room for a few minutes

5. Practice Calling Your Dog From Other Rooms

Recalling your dog is always more difficult outdoors with distractions so recall while at home is not enough to develop good recall in your dog. However, mastering recall at home is a good start. Recalling your dog while at home and then rewarding him with lots of treats and attention is also a great way to strengthen your bond. See the “how to teach your dog to come when called” post for more information on recall training.

Basics: 

  • Recall your dog with “come and make sure to reward with lots of treats and love when it gets to you

Make It More Challenging:

  • Call your dog from another room or another part of your home. Give them a lot of attention and treats when your dog comes to you
  • Call your dog over while they are busy chewing on a delicious chew or bone

Keep on Training,
Your Pal Cal

No comments yet

Dog Leash Training: On Leash Greetings

Posted on by Your Pal Cal

The big question: Should I let my dog greet other dogs while on leash?

Whether you want your dog to greet other dogs while on leash is your decision.  If you want to learn how to walk your dog without pulling, it may be good to avoid leash greetings. Similarly to human parenting, there are many ways to raise a dog and most decisions come down to personal preference. We choose not to allow our dogs to greet others on leash, ever. Our choice is strictly for training purposes but there are many reasons that a handler may not want on-leash greetings. If you like on-leash greetings, consider these reasons next time a handler brushes past you and your dog (don’t take it personally!). If you don’t allow on leash greetings, you can hopefully refer to these reasons when explaining why you prefer to keep your dog away from others on leash.

What is an “on-leash greeting”?

An on-leash greeting is when two dogs come up to each other to sniff and say hi while still attached to the leash. This will generally happen when the dogs are out for a walk. On the other hand, off-leash greetings are when dogs are running around off leash and say hi to each other. In off-leash environments, it’s *generally* expected that dogs will greet each other so the following reasons do not apply to off-leash situations.

Puppy Socialization: How can a dog socialize without on-leash greetings?

Socialization is very important for dogs, but greeting every dog on the street is not necessary for proper socializing and can actually backfire. See here for our  puppy socialization checklist. Socialization includes proper play etiquette and friendliness to other dogs but ALSO covers proper behavior in a various circumstances.  Ignoring dogs while on leash is part of proper socialization – this skill teaches dogs to remain calm when other pups walk by.  It teaches dogs that not every second of the day is for playtime. Dogs can socialize with others at the park, at the beach, at home, on hikes….the list goes on.  A well socialized dog remains calm around other dogs while on-leash.

How can you teach your dog to ignore other dogs while on leash? How can you prevent your dog from pulling? 

Solution 1: Never let your dog greet other dogs while on leash.
Solution 2: When you walk by another dog, say “leave it.” As soon as your dog looks back at you, praise them and treat them.  Continue saying “leave it” each time you walk by other dogs and treating as soon as your dog looks up to you.
Solution 3: Train your dog to only say hi to other dogs when they are given the “ok” to do so.

Dog Leash Training: Here are 7 reasons why someone may not want on-leash greetings….

1. Training: Dogs are bad at contextualizing. They won’t understand why they are allowed to say hi sometimes but not other times. Even when we are with friends, we don’t let the dogs play until they are off leash. If a dog is trained to never greet other dogs off leash, it will never want to greet other dogs. If the dog is allowed to sometimes greet dogs on leash, then it will need a constant reminder not to get distracted when walking by other dogs.  Dogs who are allowed to greet other dogs on leash will actually be conditioned to think that it is ok to pull towards random dogs. This is our primary reason for avoiding on-leash greetings.
2. Bad on leash experiences: Bad on-leash experiences are the secondary reason that we don’t let our dogs greet others while on leash – we have had too many close calls of our dogs being bit by other dogs on leash who turned out to not be so “friendly” after all. The dogs may be “friendly” sometimes, but if they have any chance of snapping while on leash they shouldn’t be greeting other dogs. There is no reason to trust someone you don’t know who tells you that their dog is friendly while on-leash. Keep your dogs safe!
3. Working dogs: This is self explanatory. Task trained service dogs need to entirely ignore other dogs and should not be distracted.
4. Gotta keep moving: Can you imagine how long it would take if your dog stopped to say hi to every dog on a busy city street?
5. Don’t want to talk: Some people don’t want to stop and talk, that’s totally fine and ought to be respected. Humans don’t stop to say hi to all the strangers they pass on the street – dogs don’t need to either.
6. Dog is leash aggressive: Some handlers avoid on leash greetings because they know that their dog is not good at on-leash greetings. These responsible handlers avoid on-leash greetings to keep their dog and other dogs safe.
7. Dog is unpredictable: Some handlers avoid on-leash greetings because their dog is unpredictable with new dogs. Chances are, their dog will be fine but they don’t want to risk their dog being triggered by the interaction. An unpredictable dog may bite out of fear or aggression. Avoiding an on-leash greeting is the only way for them to responsibly retain 100% control of the situation.

Dos and Donts of Dog Leash Greetings:

DO: Ignore a dog that is waiting patiently outside a store for its human.

DONT: Come up to a tied dog and rile him up with a leash greeting or kissy noises. If that dog snaps or breaks its stay, it’ll be your fault that the dog got in trouble.

DO: continue walking down the street with your dog as if the other dog isn’t there.

DONT: Do acrobatics to force your dog onto an incoming dog. This mainly happens with a Flexi leash – handlers will go out of their way to let their dogs walk across the entire sidewalk to say hi. This is a blatant disrespect of space – We just step over the leash and keep walking.

DONT: Stare down an approaching team as they walk towards you and your dog. We notice that a lot of dog handlers will stop in their tracks and stare us down as we walk towards them while their dog pulls towards our pups at the end of its leash.

DONT: Stop in your tracks waiting for the approaching dog to get closer and then let your dog rush it (see above).

DONT: Assume that just because you stop at the crosswalk at the same time as another dog that its ok for the dogs to greet.

DONT: Come up behind a dog you don’t know with your dog. What if the dog doesn’t like being taken by surprise? What if the human doesn’t want to talk? What if the dog is reactive? What if the dog doesn’t like having it’s butt sniffed while on leash?

DO: Respect people’s space while they are walking their dog. Understand that the dogs have other times to socialize when not on-leash.

DO: Allow dogs to meet off-leash in an appropriate setting.

DO: Teach your dog to stay calm while walking by other dogs.

DONT: Allow your dogs to invade another dog’s space uninvited while on leash.

DONT: Assume that a dog is leash-friendly just because it is a particular breed that is “generally” friendly.

DONT: Be afraid to tell another handler that you are uncomfortable with their actions. You can say something like “sorry, we are training” or “sorry, I do not let my dog greet others while on leash”

*If you must……*

DO: If you are stopped somewhere and a dog/handler walks up to you, politely ask if it ok for the dogs to greet (we don’t recommend this but if you really feel a need to, make sure to ask first).

Remember R-E-S-P-E-C-T,
-Your Pal Cal

No comments yet

Eiffel Tower Photoshoot With Our Dog

Posted on by Your Pal Cal

Three years ago, Eric proposed in Paris on a beautiful bridge overlooking the Eiffel Tower. This year, we went back to Paris with Calvin and had a wonderful photoshoot with Céline Chan. The photos turned out amazing and we love working with Céline every time we visit Paris!

We met Céline at the Trocadero overlooking the Eiffel Tower around 7am to get photos before the crowds. We barely got any sleep the night before, and didn’t have any coffee in our system…It was rough. On top of all that, Calvin was NOT having it that morning. He did not want to listen, he did not want his photo taken, and he was being very difficult. Luckily Calvin eventually woke up and became a good sport. We posed for some photos on the Trocadero and began having fun. Somehow, Céline was able to make it seem like everything was fine and dandy.

The Parisian monuments have an additional sense of magic in the early morning. The air is fresh before millions of tourists start swarming the streets and there is a peaceful feeling of quiet. We made it a priority to head out early each day to experience the feeling of tranquility.

After our shots near the Eiffel Tower, we made our way to Pont Bir Hakeim where Eric proposed. When we arrived, we saw a sweet proposal which brought back memories from our special day. Just like the day we got engaged, the girl was dressed up and looking as if something amazing was about to happen at 8am on a Saturday morning. I chuckled, remembering that I did the exact same thing on our engagement morning. I had worn a white dress and actually did my hair for once – the decision to get married is a big one, so hopefully it’s never truly a surprise when he pops the question.

I remember that Eric had told me we were going out to a fancy dinner so he wanted me to dress nicely (I immediately knew what that was code for but I played along). In case you are wondering, the dinner was overpriced and way too fancy for us. One of the courses was jello infused with vinegar (what?) and I was definitely hungry when we left. We agreed to never do that again but it was still a magical day.

Anyways, it was so nice to go back to the place where we made such a big commitment to each other 3 years ago. We will cherish this album as a wonderful memory of the trip we took to Paris with Calvin.  Hopefully there will be many more to come.

All Photos by Céline Chan Photographie

No comments yet

New Puppy Photoshoot

Posted on by Your Pal Cal

When we found out we were getting a new puppy, we immediately booked a photoshoot with Devon & Brooke to capture our family in puppy bliss. Samson was 10 weeks old when we took these family photos – He was the star of the show, but truthfully just wanted to sleep.  Calvin was his typical energetic self and decided halfway through the shoot that he would rather run through the park. Since we are generally behind the camera, we make sure to get professional family photos taken of all four of us a few times per year. Our photographers were so great to work with – they were patient and made us feel at ease the entire time. Check them out! Here were some of our favorite shots from our family photoshoot.

Samson was so cute and fluffy that we couldn’t stop ourselves from hugging him so tightly. Those puppy days only last a few weeks and we wanted to cherish every single moment. Samson has always loved being held so he happily obliged, although his face seems to show otherwise.

Enter Calvin; he was ready to party and definitely did not want to sit still for a photoshoot.  The best way to describe our shoot is the photo of Calvin sprinting towards the photographers – he loved them and didn’t want to leave them alone.

Even though Samson had only been part of our family for a week, we were already so in love with him.  He fit into our family immediately, and he and Calvin were best friends from day one (despite what the videos on social media show).  Over time, their relationship has continued to grow and I am sure Calvin doesn’t even remember a life without his little brother. What I find so wonderful about their companionship is that they manage to be best friends even despite their differences.  Anyone who has met these dogs know they couldn’t be more different – yet somehow, the miracle of friendship works its magic.

We will hold onto these photos for a long time as a memory of our first few weeks as a family of four. Even though we wish that Samson could have stayed so small and fluffy forever, we are grateful that he has grown and learned to become a confident….and potty trained….dog.

No comments yet

Homemade Dehydrated Dog Treats

Posted on by Your Pal Cal

steps to make dehydrated dog treats at home in the dehydrator

dehydrated dog treats chicken

Why homemade dog treats?

Homemade dog treats are healthier! With just a dehydrator (or oven) you can customize exactly what kinds of yummies your dog is eating. Dehydrating treats gives you full control over portions & ingredients without additives that could upset your pup’s stomach. Additionally, homemade treats are generally cheaper and healthier than store bought ones. Keep in mind, these are treats and should not replace the dog’s usual meals as the dehydrating process does remove some of the nutrients from the food.

How to make homemade dog treats:

  1. Pick out your ingredients (see full list below).
  2. Cut your ingredients into thin pieces a little bigger than the final desired size (they will shrink during the process). The thinner you cut your ingredients, the quicker they dehydrate.
  3. Prepare your dehydrator or preheat your oven to 150F. 150F is the minimum temperature that is generally accepted as a safe temperature for killing bacteria.
  4. Transfer ingredients to the dehydrator sheets or baking sheet lined with aluminum if you are using an oven. Don’t worry about placing the ingredients very close together (just not on top of each other) since they will shrink while they dehydrate.
  5. Start dehydrator/place in oven. We always use the highest setting on the dehydrator.
  6. Check on your treats every 12 hours
  7. After 24 hours, the small treats will be ready. Larger treats and pig ears may take a few days and the largest chews may take up to two weeks. Your treats are done when they are completely stiff, dry, and not bendable.
  8. Keep refrigerated and enjoy within a few weeks (or freeze up to 6 months) since these treats do not have any preservatives to extend shelf life!
homemade dehydrated sweet potato dog treats
homemade dehydrated chicken dog treats
chicken, beef, and sweet potato dehydrated dog treats

What do you need to make dehydrated dog treats? Tips & tricks to make perfect dog treats: 

  • Get a dehydrator.  If you do not own a dehydrator, you can use your oven at a low temperature (150 degrees F). We recently upgraded to an Excalibur 3948CDB 9-Tray Electric Food Dehydrator and find that it is much more effective than the dehydrator shown in this post. The dehydrator shown in this post is the more cost effective NESCO FD-75A. The NESCO works well for small pieces of food but if you will be dehydrating meaty bones or larger pieces, you will need a dehydrator like the Excalibur that has removable trays
  • The thinner you cut your ingredients, the faster they’ll be ready.
  • Dehydrating can get smelly so set up your dehydrator in an outdoor space if possible.
  • Freeze meat treats to avoid any build up of bacteria
  • Most dehydrated treats are meat products.  If meat makes you uncomfortable, we recommend not reading further. Of course, what you feed your dogs is entirely up to you so we entirely understand and respect your decision.

How do you know when your dehydrated dog treats are ready?

The dog treats are finished dehydrating when they are no longer able to be bent. The treats should be stiff, and hard to the touch. Larger chews or fattier chews will take longer to dehydrate. Marrow bones can take up to two weeks to dehydrate but small chicken jerky may just take two days.

dehydrated dog treats made at home
dehydrated steak, chicken, chicken hearts, and sweet potato dog treats

Ingredients for homemade dog treats. Without further ado, here are dehydrated dog treat ideas….

Fruits & Veggies

Dehydrated fruits and vegetables for your dog are simple, low risk, and not smelly! Just slice and dehydrate. You can add some coconut oil for an extra kick of nutrition and tastiness.

Sliced Apple
Sliced Banana
Sliced Sweet Potato
Sliced Carrots
Whole Green Beans

Dehydrated Meats for Your Dog

Dehydrated meats like tracheas, bully sticks, and pig ears are some of the more expensive treats you can buy online. Luckily, you can find these ingredients at local markets (generally Asian markets) for a fraction of the price. We dehydrate these meats at home to crispy perfection.  Meats with more fat will take more time but will eventually dry out entirely. Here’s how you can prepare your favorite treats at home…..

Chicken Hearts or Lamb Hearts – These are the best value you will find.  For about $1.50 you can get 30 chicken hearts. They are high in protein and make dogs go crazy.  Just pop them into the dehydrator whole. They are generally ready within 24 hours.
Chicken Feet –  Before dehydrating chicken feet, make sure to clip off the nails and thoroughly wash to remove any dirt. They are ready to eat when they no longer bend under pressure.
Pig Snout – Pig snout takes the longest to dehydrate because of its high fat content.  Generally, we will wipe off any oils about a day after we begin dehydrating to help the process along. Use a sharp knife to cut the pig snot into 4 equal pieces (or however large you want the treats to be).  Cut to desired size before dehydrating because they will be hard to split later. You will need a very strong knife, so be careful!
Pig Ears –  These can generally go into the dehydrator as is.  If the ear is too big to comfortably fit – you can use a knife to remove the parts that curl over so they fit on the dehydrator trays. Pig ears from markets are bigger *and cheaper* than the ones online.
Ground Beef – Make quarter sized balls out of the ground beef and then flatten into discs.
Ground Turkey – Make quarter sized balls out of the ground turkey and then flatten into discs.
Steak – Slice the raw steak into thin jerky sized strips. Once dehydrated, the steak will shrink to about half of its cut size.
Chicken Breast – Slice the raw chicken breast into thin jerky sized strips. Once dehydrated, the chicken will shrink to about half of its cut size.
Bull Pizzle – Bull pizzle is what we know as bully sticks. This is hard to find so snatch it up if you ever see it!
Liver Protein – you can buy liver protein for any type of meat.  If you don’t like the thought of slicing it, some markets will sell the liver pre sliced.
Dried Sausage – Limited ingredient turkey sausage (no added onion or garlic) or 100% beef hot dogs without nitrites make a great snack. Slice them however you’d like.

Bones & Chews

You can even dehydrate your own bones and chews at home for your dog! If you are using a dehydrator with removable trays, you will be to make heavy dog chews at home. We use the Excalibur 3948CDB 9-Tray Electric Food Dehydrator for bones and can generally fit three tiers of bones in the 9 tray model. We have been experimenting with multiple types of dehydrated bones. We are of the belief that dehydrating is a healthy way for dogs to enjoy bones as the heat is not high enough to cause the bones to become brittle. It is generally believed that the risk surrounding bones is when high temperatures are used for a rotisserie chicken at the family dinner and then the bones are fed to the dog – dehydrating does not impact the bone in the same way and the bones do not splinter like a cooked chicken bone will. Even bones such as chicken can be enjoyed by dogs as long as they are not cooked at higher temperatures (we dehydrate everything at the lowest “safe” temperature which is 150 F). We believe the literature we have read about dehydrating bones but we urge you to do your own research as well. Always supervise your dog when eating bones and heavy chews. Here are the bones and chews we have been enjoying recently:

Chicken Backs- We find chicken backs at our local butcher shop and dehydrate them for about a week.
Turkey Wings – Turkey wings are larger than chicken wings so they provide longer lasting fun for pups. We dehydrate turkey wings for about a week.
Marrow Bones – Marrow bones are our favorites because the dogs love being able to chew the outside of the bones and then lick the marrow out from the insides. Plus, they can be reused and filled with peanut butter or wet food once the dog has finished chewing off the marrow. Dehydrate for a week.
Pork Trotters (Pork Feet) – We pick up an entire pork leg from our local asian market and have the butcher at the counter slice the trotter symmetrically in half. The dogs can eat the entire leg! Pork trotters take about two weeks to fully dehydrate.
Cow Hooves/Legs – Our local market has entire cow legs available for purchase which we have cut into pieces. The dogs love slurping out the marrow and also chewing on the bone.
homemade dehydrated pork bones for dogs
dehydrated chicken backs for dogs
homemade dehydrated chicken feet for dogs

Fish

Although smelly, dehydrated fish is great for dogs – high in Omega 3s, low fat & high protein. Fish helps for a shinier coat as well. The general rule of thumb is to stick to fish with lower lifespans which have not had the time to build up mercury in their blood. Avoid fish like Tuna.  Keep raw salmon, fish bones, and shrimp tails away from your pups. There is a great variety of fish that you can dehydrate for your dogs. The following types of fish are a great *smelly* value and healthy for your pups….

Whole Lake Swelt
Whole Minnows
Whole Sardines
Whole Herring
Whole Anchovies
Sliced Salmon Filet
Enjoy your treats!
-Your Pal Cal
2 Comments